Shen Yiwen makes tofu sheets in his studio. [Photo/WeChat account: hafbwx]

Stir-fried sliced tofu sheets with chives, braised tofu sheets with pork, or tofu sheet salad are common dishes that often adorn the tables of Hai'an residents as popular side dishes.

At 11 pm, as the streetlights slowly dim, the lights in Shen Yiwen and Cao Chunlan's mill flicker on. They enter their busiest period, working tirelessly through the night to prepare fresh tofu sheets for the morning market.

Since he learned the craft from his grandfather at 18, Shen has been familiar with scenes like early morning starlight, the hum of the grinding machine, and rising steam.

Curdling the soy milk is a vital step in producing tofu sheets, depending heavily on precise hand control to manage the brine's concentration and flow. With his extensive experience, Shen carefully adds the correct amount of brine to the soy milk, gently stirs, and closely observes as it turns into the ideal tofu curd.

Molding the tofu sheets is the most time-consuming part, but it holds the key to the tender and soft texture that makes Lipu tofu sheets unique. In a wooden square mold, Shen first places a layer of cloth, then scoops the mashed tofu curd into the grid, covering each layer with cloth and repeating the process. Each layer is spread evenly, and after pressing out the excess water, the tofu sheets take their shape.

Today, while many tofu factories have moved to automated production lines, Shen and his wife continue to craft tofu by hand. "Machine-made tofu sheets might be consistent in thickness, but they don't match the delicate texture and resilience of handmade ones," he said.

Thanks to his exceptional craftsmanship, his tofu sheets have become a highly desired item not only on the streets of Lipu but also in distant cities such as Shanghai, Nanjing, and Suzhou. For many Hai'an natives working elsewhere, these tofu sheets bring back the comforting taste of home.