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A taste of Hai'an: Where fresh waters and patient craft intertwine

en.nantong.gov.cn

Updated: 2026-01-16

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White-broth pufferfish is a signature dish in Hai'an, Nantong, Jiangsu province. [Photo/WeChat account: hafbwx]

If Hai'an has a signature dish, it is white-broth pufferfish. Known as the hometown of pufferfish in China, Hai'an takes this delicacy seriously. Chefs use only farm-raised, non-toxic specimens, yet still follow a rigorous 36-step detoxification process — an unbreakable line between pleasure and safety.

The dish begins with a pot of milky, velvety broth. One spoonful coats the palate with a mellow, rounded sweetness — rich but never greasy, pure freshness spreading in quiet waves. Then comes the fish: tender, almost melting on the tongue, with skin rich in collagen.

"After tasting pufferfish, everything else feels bland," says Shao Xiangcai, president of the Hai'an Catering Association, echoing an old saying that captures the dish's near-mythical status here.

Next up is taro meatballs. Break through the soft crust, and you'll find a delicate balance of diced taro and seasoned pork. Get the ratio wrong and the dish falls apart — too much taro and it crumbles, too much meat and it turns heavy. After being fried to seal in the juices, the meatballs are braised for hours. Time does the rest, weaving taro fragrance and the richness of the meat into a single, sumptuous bite.

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A dish composed of Asian common seepweed and dried tofu. [Photo/WeChat account: hafbwx]

A plate of Asian common seepweed with braised dried tofu arrives as a refreshing contrast. Briefly blanched, the greens retain their crisp bite, then are tossed with fragrant tofu cubes, garlic, and a drizzle of sesame oil. Each mouthful is clean and refreshing — exactly the kind of dish that resets the palate.

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A bowl of noodles with shrimps and mushrooms. [Photo/WeChat account: hafbwx]

The journey ends with a humble yet soulful bowl of noodles paired with freshwater shrimp and mushrooms. The noodles are hand-rolled and cut on the spot, springy and smooth. Simmered slowly over low heat, the broth brings together the essence of river shrimp and fungi, creating a bowl that is light and comforting.