A fresh hilsa herring. [Photo/WeChat account: hafbwx]

Hilsa herring is one of three delicacies in the Yangtze River and is especially popular among natives of Hai'an in Nantong.

The fish usually travels from the sea to the Yangtze River to lay eggs in April, which is also the best time to taste the delicacy, as the abundant fat reserved under their belly makes it especially delicious.

Steaming is considered the best way to cook hilsa herring. There is no need to wash the fish or scrape its scales before cooking as the scales also contain abundant fat.

All you need to do before cooking hilsa herring is wipe it gently with a wet gauze.

Steamed hilsa herring. [Photo/WeChat account: hafbwx]

Preserve hilsa herring in salt for one hour, brush a layer of lard over the preserved fish, sprinkle some sliced scallion stalk, shredded ginger, and cooking wine over it, and then put it in a steamer to steam for eight minutes.

If fish soup wells up when the herring is poked, this means it is finished steaming.

Hai'an natives also love pouring hilsa herring gravy over a bowl of rice. The gravy-soaked rice alone makes for a delicious dish.