Even before I arrived in China, I had heard nothing but praise for Yunnan. This land South of the Clouds lives up to the literal translation of its Chinese name – blue skies, big clouds, all in a place filled with color and contrast, especially if you're starting out from Kunming.
Ask anyone about where to go in Yunnan and they'll say start from the provincial capital but don’t just stay there. They will usually tell you that it’s a starting point for all your exotic excursions to Dali, Pu’er, and Xishuangbanna and nothing more.
So, when it came time for me to finally visit Kunming, all I could think was “what is there to even do there?”
I took a step out the door, hopped on a plane, and found myself in the capital, riding the subway from Kunming Changshui Airport to my hotel…
A home in the old city
Smack dab in the city center, Moon & Chalice isn't just a great place to stay, but good looking as well
This was my first taste of an out-of-the-ordinary journey. Dubbed the Moon & Chalice Boutique Hotel, the hotel occupies two French-designed twin yellow buildings erected in 1944. It’s named as such because they both curve to form a crescent moon embracing two lanes that, when looked at from above, form a chalice.
Entering the hotel, the interior is a sight to behold. Keeping with the aesthetic of the era the buildings were born in, the whole space is art deco with a contemporary flare here and there. Gold metal and marble meeting with blue and green walls, and art of all kinds throughout.
Even the rooms (some thin, due to the width of the structures, but not cramped) are phenomenal. A stay in a Standard Double Room runs about 468 yuan ($65.38) per night and can get you a dose of that local luxury that gives you all the comforts that you would want.
Green Lake & Wenlin Street
Green Lake is also home to our first coffee shop visit: Yunn Coffee Roasters.
Think of Green Lake, (翠湖 Cuì Hú), as a miniature version of Beijing’s Beihai with a few elements of Shichahai (namely the shopping for kitsch aspect), with features like temples, pavilions, and bridges throughout. It’s green under the summer sun, and entering through a stylized red and blue gateway I’m greeted by a long bridge flanked by placid waters covered by lily pads not yet in bloom.
On the northern side of Green Lake, you’ll find 文林街 Wénlín Jiē. “Scholar’s Forest” is named as such due to the lane’s long association with the literati. It was a popular haunt for students studying for the imperial examinations at Yunnan University, and even though the tea houses and ancient eateries they frequented are long gone, the spirit lives on with newer restaurants, specialty shops, and cafés up and down the street.
A little bit of history
Kunming is home to the former Yunnan Military Academy.
Wenlin isn’t the only spot in the city center with a history behind it. And if we’re talking about a spot that can be called one of the most significant historic sites in the city, the honor goes to Yunnan Military Academy. Founded in 1909, the academy’s history goes from the end of the imperial era and into the modern era.
In between all the history, there are little tidbits like mock classrooms thrown in, as well as a look at students’ living quarters and, in the middle, yet another café and shop overlooking the training grounds. In keeping with wanghong trends, they’ve even got ice creams shaped like the academy entrance.
Besides the Yunnan Military Academy, a few other museums worth a visit include the Kunming Museum (which houses a special exhibition on the American Volunteer Group, aka the Flying Tigers). The Yunnan Provincial Museum, and the Yunnan Railway Museum. The latter institution, housed near Kunming North Station, has a collection of trains – making it a great spot to visit if you’re traveling with children.
Where to refuel
Heavenly Manna is a great lunch and dinner spot
While one could just skip hunting for the perfect cup of Yunnan coffee and head to the nearest Starbucks (fun fact: they use only Yunnan beans in China), instead hit up local cafés and check out all the different sub-varieties of Yunnan beans there are to be had. Best bet: right outside Moon & Chalice there’s 日常咖啡 Rìcháng Kāfēi, which has three different Yunnan beans to choose from to try or take home (I got one for 98 yuan for 100g).
My first taste of proper Yunnan cuisine took place just off Wenlin Jie, at a small eatery called Heavenly Manna (吗哪家常菜 Ma Nǎ Jiā Cháng Cài). The stuff to go for at this cheap and popular lunch and dinner spot include the Yunnan-style Mashed Potatoes (22 yuan), Lotus Root in Dai-style Sauce (25 yuan), Stir-fried Goat Cheese with Tomato (45 yuan), and the vaguely titled Spicy Tasty Pork (38 yuan), which is true to its name and pretty tasty.
Last but not least, no trip to Kunming is complete without getting yourself an 饵块 (Ěrkuài). Not exactly two yuan (it translates to earpiece), erkuai is sticky rice dough that’s pounded until soft and molded into different shapes. The most common form sees the dough rolled around a youtiao with sweet and savory fillings (烧饵块加油条 shāo ěrkuài jiā yóutiáo). Get it, it’s good. But don’t try using it to get on public transit.
Other distractions
Besides all the food, history, and coffee, there’s still yet more to do in Kunming, starting with nightlife.
The legendary nightclub DADA has a branch here, which I visited on a Saturday night to find packed with people for a set of Brit Pop from DJ Ozone. For more traditional music, places like Turtle and 404 will sometimes feature gigs by local groups.
And, if there’s another endeavor worth looking into while in Kunming, it's art. The art scene here might not rival Dali, but I uncovered two galleries during my trip worth visiting:Kunming Wenlin Art Gallery – an underground spot at the west end of Wenlin Jie, and Contemporary Gallery Kunming (CGK), which occupies two floors in a glass building shaped like the Arc de Triomphe inside a shopping complex.
Like many before me, my journey to Kunming has made me fall in love with the local culture, scenery, food, and art. It’s something that should be on every person’s China travel bucket list -- but there's yet more to see just outside the capital that's worth sharing. Stay tuned.
