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Blue calico regains its luster

Updated: 2023-06-20

Blue calico, also known as indigo blue cloth, is a traditional Chinese printed and dyed fabric, which has a history of 1,300 years.

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Professor Wang Mingjie from Beijing Polytechnic shows the pattern of a piece of blue calico. [Photo/beijingetown.com.cn] 

Although it is now less commonly used in urban clothing design, blue calico has found its own realm of existence through continuous inheritance. 

This achievement is inseparable from the perseverance of generations. Professor Wang Mingjie, the head of the Blue Calico at Beijing Polytechnic in Beijing E-Town, is one of them.

"The production of blue calico is not simple. To achieve satisfactory results, one must put in considerable effort," he said.

As he spoke, Wang took out several shiny carved printing plates from the cabinet. 

The exquisite carving plates serve as the guarantee for creating blue printed fabric. After this layer of plate is evenly spread on carefully selected white cotton fabric, a paste made from raw soybean powder and quicklime is applied on it with force and uniformity. 

After scraping off the paste, the fabric needs to be dried before being placed into the dyeing vat. Only through orderly immersion and timely removal can the fabric ensure a uniform color.

Next to the carved plates are treasures that Wang acquired from Yunnan and Guizhou provinces-- a stack of blue calico that has stood the test of time, still displaying fresh colors and clear patterns.

Wang had planned for a long time to collect blue calicos in Yunnan and Guizhou provinces, and he finally realized it.

Holding a one-meter square of blue calico, Wang explained that it was a wrapping cloth used by ordinary local families in the China’s Republican era (1912-1949) or even earlier. Despite a hundred years having passed, the fabric still retains its original pattern.

Blue calico can be used in many different ways, such as curtains, tablecloths, bed covers, and pillowcases. Inspired by Wang, faculty members and students at Beijing Polytechnic seek innovation not only in terms of usage but also by exploring more possibilities for blue calico patterns.