Treasures of the southern seas

A signature dish created by chef Liu Boda at the newly opened restaurant Suparnin in Guangzhou, Guangdong province — Double Bay Flavor. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Settling in Guangzhou, Liu immersed himself in Lingnan cuisine, learning from Michelin-starred Cantonese chefs in Guangzhou, Hong Kong and Macao.

"When it comes to South China Sea ingredients, most people only know yellow croaker, but there are actually many other high-quality seafood options," he says.

The local preference is for simplicity, but Liu's approach is transformative.

"I try to give these ingredients a new identity — flavors people haven't imagined," he says.

He likes to think of premium ingredients as beautiful models, for which it is the chef's job to create the perfect outfit.

His signature lies in his sauces, which are made using techniques such as reduction and extraction to amplify flavor. The rich, complex results are central to his vision that blends local traditions with bold, unexpected twists to create dishes that defy expectations.

This month, he debuted a set menu that highlights Nansha ingredients. Sunflower chicken, yellowfin sea bream, and local small prawns are reinterpreted with modern flair, each dish defined by those signature sauces. Double Bay Flavor pairs tender Nansha lobster with two sauces: a rich Chinese curry, familiar in the Greater Bay Area, and a kale juice sauce inspired by his time in San Francisco.

The curry offers spicy, sweet warmth, while the kale adds a herbal freshness, creating a dynamic, layered flavor profile. Liu also garnishes the lobster with crispy shallots and red clover for an aromatic finish.

He adjusts his seasoning to suit local tastes. For instance, when preparing a sauce for yellowfin sea bream, he uses a white sauce made with Hakka wine, instead of the more traditional French white wine.

Another standout, From Coastal to Basin, is an inventive take on sunflower chicken, a signature Lingnan dish.

Raised on a diet of sunflower seeds and leaves, the chicken is prized for its golden skin, tender meat, and distinctive aroma.

Liu makes it three ways: Cantonese-style boiled sliced chicken with sand ginger, Shanghai-style chicken with scallion oil, and Sichuan-style chicken, slow-cooked with hand-fermented chili for a subtle heat.

Food critic Yan Tao says that while many restaurants serve standard sliced boiled sunflower chicken, Liu's rendition pushes boundaries. "He captures the precision of Cantonese cooking, but also challenges the palate with new, complex layers," Yan says.

"The dishes are visually cohesive, elegant without being ostentatious. A meal here flows like poetry, with each course harmonizing perfectly with cocktail pairings. It's a dining experience that sets a new standard for Guangzhou's culinary Scene."